Davide Vaccarini, 32, graduated from the Carlo Porta Hotel Institute in Milan and then embarked on various experiences abroad. His career begins at the Savona Restaurant in Philadelphia and the superstellated WaterSide Inn in England, Albereta by Gualtiero Marchesi, Pennyhill Park in Bagshot (UK), the Four Seasons in Milan, up to the most recent experiences at Il Salumaio Montenapoleone in Lugano (CH) and the current commitment in Arvisa, The Swiss Bank of Fine and Rare Wines, also in Lugano.
We ask Davide what he thinks of the “Orange Wine”.
“I think it’s just a fad and like most fashions, only the best producers for this type of product will pass and remain. There are too many mediocre wine producers who live on the shoulders of a few, copying the style of others badly.
A wine cannot be good just because it is produced in a natural way, this characteristic must be a capital gain on a wine with good characteristics. I want to clarify that there is no mention of product quality; I tried several “orange wines” some already known and of a good standard and some pleasant discoveries.
These wines face important macerations, and sometimes extreme vinifications, which lead to oxidation. Oxidation can be positive or negative, the line is thin and often explaining it to a customer is complex.
Fortunately, the world of wine is truly vast and can satisfy every type of palate. In the end everyone knows that the taste is very personal so these wines are also welcome but, what I cannot conceive, is the invention of a new unrecognized classification (Orange wine) to explain particular white wines.
Among other things, the presence of these wines on the menu indicates that a sommelier or a person with good professional skills is present in the restaurant; therefore these wines can be explained without problems and without confusing the customers’ often confused ideas. “